Things change quickly here. It’s just the nature of the place. For a string of islands that run nearly the length of North Carolina from the Virginia border in the north to Cape Lookout in the south, adapting to fluctuations of wind and wave is a way of life, and every species that finds food and shelter there has had to find a way to do just that or perish in the beautiful, but unforgiving, intersection of sky, sea, and sand. But that doesn’t mean change is easy, and the growing pains at Cape Hatteras National Seashore, the National Park Service site that encompasses a large portion of the Outer Banks from Kitty Hawk to Ocracoke Island, have been more difficult than most.
The issue is access, specifically access by 4-wheel drive Off-Road Vehicles on the beaches of the National Seashore. For years ORVS have had the run of the place, year-round access to nearly the entirety of the 67 miles of beachfront that CHNS ostensibly protects. The vast majority of traffic was associated with surf fishermen, who haul coolers, tackle, and chairs out to far flung parts of the seashore in massive SUVs and trucks. On busy holiday weekends, thousands crowded the beaches such that it seemed more parking lot than National Park. Needless to say, very little was done to take into consideration other users of the seashore; birders, shellers, sunbathing families, surfers, and especially the bird species that nest on the ephemeral spits of sand.
Needless to say, this has long been a contentious issue out here. Beach drivers and fisherman claim an almost divine right to haul their gear and coolers out to the farthest reaches of the National Seashore, and it probably wouldn’t surprise any of you to know that such activity generally has a detrimental effect on the other, longer term, residents of the beach. In the past, small but stable populations of Black Skimmers and American Oystercatchers and three species of tern (Least, Common, and Gull-billed) could be found on the islands. All have declined, and that decline has been inversely proportional to the increase in beach traffic. This is unequivocal.
The species of most concern from the fed’s perspective (which, lets be honest, is really all that matters on federal land), and the one which eventually became the lightning rod of criticism, was the Piping Plover. Charadrius melodus are especially vulnerable to excessive ORV use because they make their nests in simple scrapes on the ground and are easily deterred by high ORV traffic. Their young are precocial, able to forage for themselves mere hours after hatching. As such, tiny birds can be crushed beneath the wheels of vehicles. Wheels that scatter and destroy the wrack where they forage. And trash and fish guts left behind by even a few careless fishermen attracts gulls, raccoons, and feral cats that depredate the fledglings. NPS has tried over the years to help, but every attempt is met by massive backlash from some residents and activist groups who see anything short of free and unregulated use of the National Seashore as a thruway with Piping Plover speedbumps as federal encroachment of traditional values by business hating, tourist killing tree-huggers.
It got so bad that in recent years we’ve seen neighbor turned against neighbor. Bird watchers and NPS rangers vilified. Official rule-making committees formed to address the situation that needed professional mediators called in from across the United States to keep the peace. Negotiations between stakeholders become bogged down in minutia while the status quo, overly deferential to ORV groups and users, continued such that some groups had an interest in running out the clock. In short, if Cape Hatteras National Seashore was to fulfill its mission of securing federally protected species within its borders, something fairly drastic needed to be done.
In 2007, when a lawsuit was brought against the National Park Service by the Southern Environmental Law Center and the Defenders of Wildlife claiming that NPS was failing to adequately address declining populations of protected species. A federal judge agreed, instituting a consent decree that closed some of the beaches during part of the year when the shorebirds, particularly the Piping Plovers but also Oystercatchers and Least Terns, were nesting. Predictably, some folks went apoplectic. The rancor was particularly bad early on, but as the last two years passed NPS and others have been monitoring the situation. Tourism declined, but it did everywhere largely due to the fact that the world economy more or less fell off a cliff, but it still remained higher than the national average. People still came to fish despite the closure of some beaches.
And crucially, the birds, given an opportunity to recover, finally broke free of their large tired, gas belching shackles and in 2010 and bred their way to the best single season they’d had since people began keeping serious records. Piping Plovers were up. Least Terns were up. Oystercatchers were up. By that metric the consent decree was an unabashed success. Moreso, by 2010, tourism had crept back, and according to the Outer Banks Visitor’s Bureau more money was spent on the Outer Banks through August than any year previously. By all accounts, 2010 was win/win. Every datapoint since 2007 indicates that a reasonable compromise can be reached.
I feel like all this backstory is relevant in response to the anxiously awaited release of the NPS’s Final ORV Management Plan earlier this week, nearly 700 pages in all (readers suffering from insomnia can read it here). I’ve tried, with mixed success, to read it for myself but I’m fortunate that others with more time on their hands can give me the highlights.
In short, environmental organizations in the state have advocated a stricter interpretation of the consent decree currently in place, and they’ll likely be disappointed to see that NPS didn’t go that way (the sticking point being essentially just under 13 miles ruled “seasonally accessible” that environmental groups would like to see closed year-round), but what they got from NPS was pretty good considering any codification of even minor beach closures would likely engender the same primal scream response from the all-or-nothing ORV activists. It’s not the end by any means, but it’s a good start, and if nothing else will set a new baseline as to what we can expect in the way of breeding success for many of the species of concern for adjustment of management practices down the road. All I know is that if it means Common Terns will be breeding in North Carolina again, I’ll call that a victory.
This new management plan may be a change from what many people understand as fair use of the National Seashore, but it sets in motion a vision for the Outer Banks that’s more sustainable. There’s only so many trucks you can allow on a beach before you lose the character than makes it so special. And once that’s gone, it’s nearly impossible to get back. At the very least, those of us with a stake in the outcome should be able to prove that we’re as resilient as anything else that lives out there.
The islands, after all, demand nothing less.
The balance between conservation and humans is mostly outweight by humans, unfortunately. But it feels good to be on the losing side knowing that conservation is gaining more weight on people, companies and country´s decision making policies.
Nate,
Having spent several vacations on the Outer Banks, I must admit I was baffled as to why vehicles were allowed at all, while metal detecting was banned, and there were signs all over asking folks to protect the sand dunes etc.
Great place to visit, and a great post.
Nate
Great post. I just read your 2009 post (and, more important, the interesting “comment conversation” you had)
I never been to the outer banks, and am trying to visualize the problem. How far is the furthest (and average) beach from a parking lot or road? Or, to rephrase the question, what percentage of the beach is located at a mile or less (a reasonnable distance to walk for a “sportmen”) from a road?
Looking at google earth, it seems that there is indeed a road (NC12?) along the beach, so surely, closing the beach to ORV can not really prevent fishermen to have access to any possible beach
Note that this situation is roughly comparable to the sleeping bear dunes lakeshore in michigan. Private lands and beach had been bought by the feds in the early 70’s to create that park, and this is the most important nesting area for piping plovers in Michigan (and, If my memory in accurate, the whole great lakes area). Fishing is allowed there, and there is a successfull program in protecting the pipings. As far as I know, I have not heard of any conflict between park users, proving that it is indeed possible to accomodate good willing park users.
@Laurent: the difference might be that fishing/angling from the beach of lake Michigan is far, far less attractive than fishing from an Atlantic Ocean beach. I don’t know, but I guess so, as I have seen very few people fishing from sandy beaches along the Great Lakes, yet this is a popular activity for people along the sandy beaches of the Atlantic coast of Namibia.
@Renato – Indeed. I’m proud of the work the SELC, Audubon, and Defenders of Wildlife did in standing up for the birds and turtles on the Outer Banks. And I’m especially glad the Park Service appears to finally be heading in the right direction.
@Wes- Thanks much. It is more than a bit excessive some times of the year, and the ban on metal detecting seems odd. Maybe they don’t want visitors taking the pirate treasure NPS hasn’t found yet.
@Laurent- NC12 is a two lane highway that runs the length of the islands. Along the way there are access ramps (and often small parking lots) at roughly 3-4 mile intervals where ORVs can access the beach, more often at popular sites. A fisherman could walk a relatively short distance to access open beach front from any of these ramps. These sites are generally not the contentious ones however.
Sites like Cape Point, which is where the island turns sharply west, are farther from a paved road. A fisherman (or birder for that matter) would have to walk at least 2 miles depending on the layout of the point to access the prime fishing (and birding) location. The argument has been made that this is too far. I happen to believe that’s ridiculous as there’s no obligation for the NPS to make sites like this accessible to every individual. It’d be like running an escalator to the top of El Capitan in Yosemite, but anyway…
The short of it is that even though some beaches are closed to vehicles and even pedestrians, there are open beaches for beach drivers and fishermen year-round, which is a concession as far as I’m concerned. Anything you hear to the contrary is a flat-out lie. And unfortunately lies like that are going around.
@Jochen- You’re right. Great Lakes fishing is pretty good, but it’s nothing compared to the coast of North Carolina. It’s simply one of the best surf-fishing sites in the world. It’s phenomenal for birding too, for the same reasons actually.
wow, 2 miles, that’s about 25 mn of walking in a pristine landscape, surely it is too much to ask for those “rugged outdoormen”, “sportmen”.
Then I think about the 6 miles round trip you have to do to walk or bike to the cell 3 of pointe mouillee in Michigan (our local, mini equivalent or the outer banks of NC, except it is build from contaminated dredge material, a far less appealing alternative to the dunes and sandbeaches of OBX), distance that local birders and duck hunters are usually happy to do (although not at the same time), I tend to think that outdoorsmen of the tar heel state have been softened by the sweet life of the south!
@Laurent- I generally agree. I’ve walked to the point with a scope before, it’s about 2 miles. The argument has always been that they have to haul lots of stuff, but it seems to me there’s a market there for large wagons or something similar.
That said, the majority of the complainers have been from groups farther north, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and especially Virginia, rather than native Carolinians.
Nate et al,
A big part of the distance problem is that it has evolved that a major part of the Surf Fishing culture is the how much gear you have makes you Da man. A mine is bigger and better mind set.
This seems to be the only post on the subject ever where the fit seems to have missed the shan. No string of nasty commentary by … you know … the other folks.
Remarkable.
Surely all busy fishing after a long walk to the beach.
@Julie- Certainly seems that way.
@Jochen- Well, I just approved one. Usually it takes a few days. And it came to my personal blog rather than here, for what it’s worth.
Ah, okay. It’s good to know that some things will never change.
Maybe fishermen are just mellower than hunters. I mean have you ever
seen a Tshirt that said ” Even a bad day of hunting is better than a day at work.” Have seen that many times about fishing.
Note that birders, to some extend, have the same gear issue. A 80mm scope (I confess, I bought one 2 years ago, but am now thinking that I would have get the same birds with a 60 mm, for a lot less effort), a 10*50 pair of binoculars (I remember a gear review from Charlie where he did not think weight was an issue – I can’t disagree more), plus a respectable sized camera (wait, maybe I should also take this P&S camera in case I need to digiscope). Add to that the full version of Sibley Guide (is it going to be enough in case a weird gull shows up?), a lunch and a half gallon of water, and you end up with 30 pounds of gear, wich is more that I was carrying for 3 days then I was into ultralight backpacking. So birders ALSO have to carry their gear. And they did it using the same tools fishermen have. Their legs.
@Laurent- I’ve gone out there by foot and I’ve gone out by truck. Truck is definitely easier and if I want to go birding with scopes and cameras it’s nice to have that option.
That said, when the birds are nesting, it’s off limits and I accept that as the reality of the situation, even if it means no more pelagics from shore when the wind is right in May. So be it. I wish the fishermen could be so magnanimous.
@Nate: going out by truck won’t make you hear the faint call that will guide you to a Smith’s Longspur in the dunes. One needs to walk the walk to bird the bird.