Regular readers of this blog would know by now that I spent about a week and a half at the legendary Rancho Naturalista in Cartago, Costa Rica a couple months ago. Reviews of this place are suitably effusive; Lisa, Nikky, and the rest of the staff are warm and welcoming from before one even arrives at the lodge. Don’t even get me started on the food – there’s a dedicated page and I also made this video to periodically drool over.

Rooms are neatly nestled in the vegetated hillside, each morning light would trickle in as Violet Sabrewings and Stripe-throated Hermits patrolled the flowering plants. The latter was my first bird of the trip, closely followed by a Slaty-capped Flycatcher.

Morning view from the bed.

Mid-afternoon showers from the balcony, perched at 950m above sea level behind a warm cup of coffee.

Come for the birds, stay for the friendships kindled, they say. Today (as every day), we celebrate the birds encountered in this magical place – sprinkled with notes of encouragement to visit and enjoy a soul-pampering experience. When speaking of the birds at Rancho Naturalista, there is one that sits comfortably at the top of the list.

Everyone who visits Rancho Naturalista dreams of seeing a Snowcap. Encountering one is more or less guaranteed, photographing it properly is another story, however.

Conspicuous residents are Brown Jays and Montezuma Oropendolas. Occasionally a few Melodious Blackbirds may transit through the property. Red-billed Pigeons, White-winged Doves, and Grey-headed Chachalacas would accompany the jays and oropendolas as they collectively descended upon the feeders in waves throughout the day.

Brown Jay

Montezuma Oropendola

Melodious Blackbird

Red-billed Pigeon

White-winged Dove

Grey-headed Chachalaca

A neotropical birding lodge would be incomplete without a motmot, surely – and there are a few suspects lurking in the understory here.

Lesson’s Motmot, almost too close for comfort.

This Rufous Motmot was a near-silent observer of the human observers along one of the many trails around Rancho Naturalista.

On one early morning birding stroll, the unmistakeable sounds of a Keel-billed Toucan led us back from the trails to the main area where not one but three of these iconic Middle American birds were croaking sweet nothings across the valley from a bare tree above one of the main buildings.

Keel-billed Toucan

The trees were also replete with all manners of woodpeckers, woodcreepers, and even a xenops here and there. Migrant Red-eyed Vireos and various warblers also – there were so many North American visitors that they warrant their own post altogether.

Lineated Woodpecker

Hoffmann’s Woodpecker

Black-cheeked Woodpecker

Cocoa Woodcreeper

Streak-headed Woodcreeper

There was much movement in the understory, while this could oftentimes be attributed to mammalian activity, birds were equally responsible. Sparrows, doves, and Costa Rica’s very vocal national bird would invariably materialise for the patient observer.

Clay-coloured Thrush

Orange-billed Sparrow

Black-striped Sparrow

Cryptic wrens, ant-tanagers, and foliage-gleaners frustrated the photographer as they often refused to betray their position, opting to remain hidden or visible only in the densest, darkest parts of the understory. While the Fawn-throated Foliage-gleaner was a blurry beast in all of my photographs, I did manage to catch a few discernible frames of some of the skulking wrens.

I spied this White-breasted Wood-Wren from a bathroom window and hurriedly ran out in pursuit. Thankfully it was still interested in whatever it was tracking.

Bay Wren

Stripe-breasted Wren

A pair of Olive-backed Euphonias repeatedly interrupted our meals as they sought their own sustenance.

Deeper in the forest but still visible from the main dining area was this Yellow-throated Euphonia.

Buff-throated Saltator

Social Flycatcher

Grey-capped Flycatcher

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher

Mistletoe Tyrannulet

Colourful tanagers and hummingbirds always steal the show, however.

Scarlet-rumped Tanager

Crimson-collared Tanager

Blue-grey Tanager

Golden-hooded Tanager

Violet-headed Hummingbird

Bronze-tailed Plumeteer

Crowned Woodnymph

Green-breasted Mango

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Violet Sabrewing

White-necked Jacobin, making a statement

There were undoubtedly innumerable birds that I missed in my time there, but I trust you enjoy this liberal selection of Rancho Naturalista’s residents. As I mentioned earlier in this article, boreal migrants were aplenty and will be covered in a future article. Stay tuned, much more to come!

Written by Faraaz Abdool
Faraaz Abdool is an internationally published freelance conservation and wildlife photographer/writer who specializes in birds and the issues they face worldwide. He graciously serves on the Trinidad and Tobago Bird Status and Distribution Committee (formerly the Trinidad and Tobago Rare Bird Committee), and leads birding trips on both islands. Faraaz also runs yearly birding and wildlife tours to East Africa.Although he doesn’t keep a life list, Faraaz has been a keen birder for many years, separating Black and Turkey Vultures at distance as a little boy, skipping class to gaze at Magnificent Frigatebirds as a teenager and quitting his job as an electrical engineer to put all his energy into conservation as an adult. Faraaz cultivates wildlife consciousness via his words and images, in a last-ditch attempt to reconnect humans with nature and save the world.