I’m publishing this article later than usual but it’s the subjects themselves that are responsible. Since the 1970s I have been monitoring a wintering roost of Crag Martins (Ptyonoprogne rupestris) at Gorham’s and Vanguard Caves, off the east side of Gibraltar. The average wintering population is around 2,000-3,000 birds but numbers have varied significantly between years and even within the winter itself. A couple of years ago, particularly cold conditions further north seem to have been the cause of an unprecedented influx, when we had up to 27,000 birds at the roost!

Sunrise at Vanguard Cave Gibraltar, with Crag Martins getting ready to leave for the day

When going up to count the entry of birds tonight, I wondered what results we would get. Last week there were 800 birds at the roost, about right for the time of year, with more due to come. With the bad weather in parts of Spain last week, especially along the east coast, I wondered if that might have had an effect by speeding the arrival of Crag Martins. Recoveries of birds we have ringed at the caves have shown us that these birds come from as far as the Italian Alps and an east coast route for them seems logical, supported by a recovery in Castellón.

Nets ready to catch Crag Martins as they arrive at the roost
Nets with Crag Martins
Crag Martin in net
PhD student Tyson Holmes extracting birds for study
Ringing a Crag Martin

Well, from the outset of the count, it was clear that it was going to be big. Crag Martins started to arrive an hour-and-a-half before sunset, soon swarming over the vegetated slopes above the roost as they caught the last insects of the day. In the end we counted just over 5,500 birds! Last year was a poor year with under 3,000 birds on average, so it’s great to see numbers reaching above-average figures already, with more birds due to arrive during November.

Crag Martins huddled up for warmth, waiting to catch the morning sun

We have been studying the roost for some years now with some very interesting and exciting results. It turns out that individual birds occupy particular caves within the complex of caves. They are faithful to the cave, returning each night throughout the winter and even from one winter to the next. There is almost no intermixing of birds between the caves, which are very close to each other.

The roost. Gorham’s Cave, far left. Vanguard Cave, centre. All caves are occupied during the winter

Gorham’s Cave appears to be the best cave, perhaps because of particular microclimatic conditions. The birds here are always in better condition, with higher body mass than those in the other caves. Their survival rates are also higher. Many of these birds are adults, experienced birds at selecting the best ledges inside the caves.

Crag Martins sunning themselves at Vanguard Cave, prior to a day’s feeding on the mainland

All this is highly important for birds that rely exclusively on aerial insects for food. During bad weather the birds will stay at the roost and won’t feed. They rely on body fat to see them through these lean periods. If these are long, many birds will perish. So, the success of the Crag Martin, the only aerial insectivore capable of surviving the European winter, is to behave like a migratory bird in transit. During warm and sunny spells feed on as many insects as you can and lay down fat. Then use up the fat when it becomes impossible to catch insects.

Weighing a Crag Martin

These “brown swallows” were reported by the Reverend John White, stationed at Gibraltar, to his brother Gilbert White of Selborne in 1771. He saw them precisely entering the roost which I have described! White’s observations started a thinking process that suggested that swallows migrated rather than bury themselves in the mud in ponds for the winter.

Crag Martin on a ledge inside one of the caves

There is one further twist to my story. When we started excavating in these caves, sites that had been occupied by Neanderthals 100,000 years ago, we found the remains of Crag Martins! Yes, here was evidence of a roost that had been active for tens of thousands of years. When I see the birds at the roost, I cannot help but think that I am seeing what a Neanderthal once saw. Now that’s heritage!

The caught birds cannot be released in the dark so they are kept in boxes overnight and released at the roost the following morning. The release is one of the most wonderful parts of the whole process


Written by Clive Finlayson
Growing up in Gibraltar, it is impossible not to notice large birds of prey, in the thousands, overhead. That, and his father’s influence, got Clive hooked on birds from a very young age. His passion for birds took him eventually to the Edward Grey Institute of Field Ornithology at Oxford University where he read for a DPhil, working with swifts and pallid swifts. Publishing papers, articles and books on birds aside, Clive is also a keen bird photographer. He started as a poor student with an old Zenit camera and a 400 mm lens; nowadays he works with a Nikon mirrorless system. Although his back garden is Gibraltar and the Strait of Gibraltar, Clive has an intimate knowledge of Iberian birds but his work also takes him much further afield, from Canada to Japan to Australia. He is Director of the Gibraltar National Museum. Clive's beat is "Avian Survivors", the title of one of his books in which he describes the birds of the Palaearctic as survivors that pulled through a number of ice ages to reach us today.