Since I don’t drive, the vast majority of my birding is self-propelled. Biking and most especially walking tend to accustom a person to a certain pace — a pace that is leisurely and lends itself to reflection and rumination. Such meditative birding is, for me, the heart of the experience. It relieves stress, helps me make decisions, and leaves me feeling refreshed. What could be better?
Sometimes, though, you’ve got to mix it up a little. And birding on foot in the July heat can sometimes be less than refreshing on the physical plane, no matter what it does mentally. So when a group of friends invited me to join them in a float on the Blackfoot River, I agreed, although with some trepidation; though this spring’s flooding is over, water levels are still high and the rivers more challenging than usual. Would I see birds, or would I spend all my time trying not to drown?
Spoilers: I saw birds.
There were five of us, and two dogs, traveling in a flotilla composed of a raft, a canoe, and a kayak. I was far and away the least experienced on the water, even counting the dogs, so I stayed in the raft and performed such vital tasks as taking pictures and handing people beers.
This left me a lot of time for looking around. Yet it was the guy in the kayak, a UM ornithologist, who spotted the Lewis’s Woodpeckers. There were two of them, moving across the river from snag to snag with their crow-like wingbeats. I got a look just good enough to justify adding them to my life list as we drifted past. Unlike what you may have read, real rivers bear us ceaselessly into the future.
But if there was not doubling back, there was also no getting exhausted and deciding to double back home. There was plenty of time to sip a beer. There was plenty of time to try to convince the dogs that the people in the canoe were not in imminent danger and did not need to be rescued. There was plenty of time to observe the scores of Spotted Sandpipers that seemed to be everywhere along the bank, peeping and flitting and bobbing in a post-breeding season riot of abundance. The Common Mergansers were a little further behind – the two females we spotted were chaperoning thirteen downy young between them. The Bald Eagles that nest along the river had apparently had a very poor breeding season, the high water making their usual fishing spots less productive, so the ornithologist told me; we only saw one of the adults.
Eventually the dogs jumped in to rescue the canoers, only to make for shore. This meant that we had to pull over and retrieve them; jumping out to try to help secure the raft, I misjudged the depth and took my only swim of the day. Fortunately, I was wearing a life jacket and my water-resistant binoculars actually lived up to their billing.
At that stop, and the subsequent stop for a quick lunch cooked on a portable grill, we saw the casings of molted stoneflies and a few salmonflies. The flies themselves hovered over the river everywhere, a banquet for insectivores. Sure enough, we soon encountered a colony of Cliff Swallows – the first I’d ever seen nesting on actual cliffs instead of man-made structures. Maybe I was being borne back into the past just a little.
If I was, I was soon jolted out of it by our encounter with the only major rapids of the trip. I am not a roller-coaster fan, and I was a bit splashed and jolted, but on the raft I was in no serious danger – unlike my friends in the canoe. We stood by ready to rescue them as they came through the stretch, but they stayed impressively upright and afloat.
It was growing late in the day by now. The slanted light would have made tricky IDs trickier, but instead old friends surrounded us – more Spotted Sandpipers, a Great Blue Heron, an American Kestrel in the top of a pine as we floated by the Ninemile Prairie. It was getting cooler now, but puffs of warm juniper-scented air drifting down from the hills kept us from getting uncomfortable.
By the time we pulled up on shore, the Common Nighthawks and the bats were out. We built a small fire, changed into dry clothes, and waited while two of the party took the previously-stashed car back to the launch point to retrieve the truck and trailer. I watched the Nighthawks circle in the gathering dark and finished the last of the beer.
Spotted Sandpiper photo courtesy of the Forest Service and David Herr.
That was wonderful, and seeing two Lewis’s Woodpeckers must be, too.
Thanks, Jochen. And I’m not going to lie, the woodpeckers were pretty great. I still have to go back for some better looks, of course.
@Jochen: Does Carrie ever write something not wonderful?
@Corey: Yes. Her book reviews are useful and entertaining, but not as wonderful as her birding adventures, or rather the tales thereof.
You’re making me blush!
Jochen – it’s funny you should say that, because I always worry that my trip reports, being of less practical use than my book reviews, will be less well-received.
I’ve floated the Blackfoot many times – great river! Last week on the Salmon (a little south of you) I saw fledgling osprey and bald eagles, great blue herons, and dozens of cliff swallows. Some of my best birding experiences have happened while floating!
That depends on what the readers want from you. Your forte – according to the things I like – are clearly stories (although reviews are not your weakness), and that’s what I expect to read from you. Books may contain great stories. However, reading about their content is less of an adventurous experience than reading their content.
Your reviews no doubt are very good, particularly so as you tend to give them a little extra twist and go beyond the standard review format. But to me and my idea of great writing, they are not much of an art form – just a little bit. Your birding stories, however, are – fully.
When you started to study in Missoula, a change in writing style became apparent. To me and my understanding of your writing, you lost part of your lightness and humour. You did not lose quality, but your stories had changed somewhat to being entertaining in a more serious, “settled” way. With this post, you brought everything I enjoy about your posts back. The MF Reef Heron, the gravitas of the Skimmers, and the snakebird’s funky dance. That is the reason I particularly wanted to mention how happy I am about this post, and that I find this to be a wonderful piece of writing.
Just thought I’d second (third?) the fact that this is wonderful writing. Made me smile (with a touch of jealousy, I might add).